Dominique Havelan bought the vineyards at Vieux Château Gaubert in 1981 and followed up by buying the run-down 18th century château itself in 1988. Both were renovation projects and wisely Dominique concentrated on replanting plots of the 16 hectares of vines and building a 1,000 barrel winery before taking on the house.
He hit the ground running and won plaudits for his early wines and has been making exceptionally good Graves ever since, particularly his white wines made from equal proportions of Sémillon and sauvignon, fermented in barrel and aged on their lees in 35% new oak.
He is a trained oenologist and just as importantly a third-generation winemaker and his wines have rivalled the better crus classés of Pessac-Léognan for 25 years or more.
Wonderfully complex nose, with aromas of cassis and plums, swathed in savoury nuance with hints of truffle, roasted meats coffee and fresh leather. Rich yet graceful with succulent, soft, velvety tannins. At its peak right now, this delicious red still possesses plenty of life and will continue to drink for a few more years yet.