Domaine des Malandes Chablis Envers de Valmur

The Domaine des Malandes, created in Chablis in 1972 by Lyne Marchive, was recently taken over by her children Richard Rottiers and Amandine Marchive. They have made few changes, including the conversion to organic farming, which begins in 2019. The Domaine farms 30ha in Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis 1er Crus and Chablis Grands Crus and vinifies two appellations of the great auxerrois: Saint Bris and Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre white. Guenole Breteaudeau is in charge of the winemaking since 2006, with the goal of enhancing the terroir with elegant and delicate vinification.

Chardonnay,

Fully sustainable agriculture.

"Envers de Valmur" is a 1.65 hectare parcel, facing South West and situated at the bottom of the Vaudésir Grand Crus valley. Made from vines that are over 50 years old, it brilliantly expresses all the nobility of its terroir.

The wine undergoes both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. 60% of the cuvée is fermented in stainless steel tanks with temperature controlled (18°) and 40% in barrels of 1 to 5 years old. Aging in stainless steel tanks for 10 months.

This is Grand Cru Chablis in all but name. Pure, complex with a touch of wood in a rich and ripe structure.

Nervous, precise and intensely saline, it is beautifully fresh on the palate, supported by a subtle blend of stainless steel and wood. The nose is immediately captivating, with notes of white flowers and crisp citrus fruit. Under the impetus of Lyne Marchive and now supported by the new generation, Domaine des Malandes has established itself as a safe bet in Chablis, constantly striving for finesse and purity.

Serve lightly chilled with fish and white meats.

Nolan - Text from the Spotlight On French White Wines & Their Global Influences blog

Here we have a frankly beautiful expression from the crystalline end of the Chardonnay flavour camp that is exemplified by Chablis.

Chablis itself is a part of greater Burgundy, Bourgogne as they would like to be known, yet is far flung from the famous stretch of vineyards in Bourgogne’s Cote d’Or, (golden slope). Chablis’ vineyards are over 60 miles North of the rest of the cluster, in fact they are actually closer to Champagne. Up here, these Northern climes, create a naturally lean style of wine, with the searing, razor-sharp acidity that makes Chablis work so well with food.

Where does the classic crystalline, minerality come from though? This is all down to the soils, Chablis has two famous soils, Kimmeridgian and Portlandian. Kimmeridgian soil is more highly regarded and contains greater levels of mineral-rich clay, as well as the essential marine fossils which are responsible for its significant lime content. Kimmeridgian soils are the source of the trademark minerality in premier and grand cru wines from Chablis. Portlandian soils are not so rich in clay and fossils, which results in slightly fruitier wines with a less mineral profile.

Domaine des Malandes is a fully sustainable, family-owned winery who own small parcels of land across the wider Chablis area. Most of these are in Petit Chablis, grown on Portlandian soils, this Envers de Valmur is special though. "Envers de Valmur" is a 1.65 hectare parcel, facing Southwest and situated at the bottom of the Vaudésir Grand Crus valley. The vines on this small site are all planted in the famous Kimmeridigian clay, with an average vine age of 50 years old. This wine is Grand Cru in all but name and price and is treated to that Grand Cru treatment in the winery as well, with 40% of the wine being aged in older oak barrels for 10 months to add complexity.

Without spending a significantly larger sum, I haven’t found a better Chablis. Pure and complex, with a touch of wood in a rich and ripe structure. White flowers and crisp citrus fruit with an electric acidity and a delicious wet flint minerality and a light salinity.

A wine such as this is perfect to match the marine and ozone flavours of an Atlantic oyster.