An Introduction To Ktima
Write up by Chris Nolan.
January and February, whilst the shop feels quiet there is a flurry of activity behind the scenes. This is the season we recalibrate, do the jobs that are neglected over “Silly Season” and most importantly travel to tastings across the country.
In the coming months, keep an eye out for fun new wines sneaking their way on to the shelves. For now though, I would like to bring to your attention this fantastic range that slid under the radar within a whirlwind of new purchases last year, introducing Ktima Apostolidi from Greek Macedonia!
I recently retried these wines and, “holy fermented grape juice Batman,” are they good. Situated about halfway between Thessaloniki and the land border with Turkey, Ktima Apostilidi are Organic and “Demeter” certified making excellent wines in a “natural” method but without the “funk”, the wines are clean. The focus here is very much on grapes native to Aegean basin.
There should be more fun things on the horizon from this winery for us but for now I will introduce you to the three wines we currently stock.
Ktima Apostolidi Karapapas Palaiochori Red
The red is a rarely seen grape on these shores called Karapapas. This is actually a Turkish grape called Papazkarası, which roughly translates to "black bishop" or "black priest". I had this on Valentines with a fantastic steak and olive laden salsa verde. Stylistically, I’d say this is more medium bodied, if I had to compare it to something else, it would be Xinomavro meets Chianti. Savoury but still juicy, sour cherry and vibrant acidity with some tannic grip. If you like Chianti, red Burgundy or Nebbiolo, give this a whirl!
Ktima Apostolidi Vidi Anno Lofos White
The white is another rarity in the UK called Vidiano. The wine is aged separately in a combination of stainless steel, oak casks and clay amphora. This combination of aging preserves the fruit character whilst also adding complexity. Steely, stoney, minerally, with a core of melon and bizarrely, raspberry? This wine is really unique but would appeal to anyone who loves Albariño or Chablis. Not going to lie, I didn’t pair this with anything, just drank it and it was sublime.
Ktima Apostolidi Assyrtiko Agia Triada Orange
Finally, the Assyrtiko, the most well known of this trio of varietals. Here we have a skin contact wine, I wouldn’t personally go as far as to say full orange. The fermentation in contact with the grape skins has been conducted at cool temperatures so the tannin & colour extraction is very lightly done. This has brilliantly piercing acidity and a saline tang that is so common to Assyrtiko wines. Think of this as a coastal influenced dry Riesling with some extra body provided by that skin contact. I enjoyed this when it first came in but I am waiting for summer to give this one another whirl, I’m thinking fish and halloumi grilled over coals with a simple salad.
