Spotlight on Mezcal
Write up by Mark Kirkwood
What is agave?
Agave is a genus of monocots native to the arid regions of the Americas. The genus is primarily known for its succulent and xerophytic species that typically form large rosettes of strong, fleshy leaves. (succulent and xerophytic species are plants that have adaptations to survive in an environment with little liquid water)
What is Mezcal?
The differences between Tequila & Mezcal production lie in agave varietals and cooking process. With Tequila, the piñas are cooked traditionally in steam ovens (hornos) for 2-3 day, or using modern autoclaves which are large, sealed, stainless steel vessels that use high-pressure steam, they can cook agave in as little as 8 hours. Whereas in Mezcal production the piñas are roasted in underground, stone lined earthen pits for several days using wood and charcoal which imparts the prominent smoky flavour.
These cooking methods are regulated and classified into three categories based on the method of production that identifies the use of underground pit ovens:
Mezcal
Mezcal Artesnal
Mezcal Ancestral
The other difference being, agave varietal. In Tequila production you are bound to the Blue Weber Agave, these plants are particularly suited to the silicate-rich, red volcanic soils in the region around the city of Tequila. Whereas Mezcal opens up the world of agave diversity.
Every mezcal producing region offers its unique stamp that highlight the traditions, the terroir and style of the region. Terroir is a term used within the wine world, it is a French term that translates to "sense of place". It refers to how a specific region's environment, including its soil, topography, and climate influences the unique taste, aroma, and character of an agricultural product. With the growing influence of climate change and necessity for enviromental responsibility, terroir is something that is finding it's place in the spirits world.
Barley for whisky, sugarcane for rum and of course, agave for mezcal or tequila; all of the raw ingredients that go into each spirit are becoming more conscientiously sourced, travelling less distance for production and are being considered for the impact they have on the finished liquid in the bottle. This doesn't mean for one second that things are hunky dory in the agave or the wider spirits world, concerns over fair pay, trade, protection of the agave plants and demand are issues that are plaguing the agave market despite it's exponential growth over the past decade... you may or may not have noticed that every celeb and their dog has a Tequila brand that they've put their name to, which from my experience are akin to the excrement produced by said dog.
With terroir in mind, pictured above you can see the different states of Mezcal production. Each state offering it's own "sense of place" and when you consider that 95% of Tequila comes from the state of Jalisco, and it would take around two days to drive the length of the country, the nuance of each state and the varietals that are grown becomes apparent.
Mezcal however does have an unofficial home in the state of Oaxaca, where roughly 90% of Mezcal is produced. Here you will see an abundance of Espadin, and if you're relatively new to the spirit or have only tried one or two, likelihood is it will have been Oaxacan Espadin. This varietal accounts for 80% of all mezcal production as they take 6-8 years growth period which is relatively short given some varietals can take 2 or 3 decades to reach full maturity. Espadin can also adjust to most climates in Mexico, due to its ability to adapt to different altitudes, types of weather and terrain it is one of the most versatile varietals.
Some of our favourites
Madre De Todos Los Muertos Mezcal
With a deep respect for the plant, the earth and traditional mezcal production, sustainability is at the heart of Mezcal Madre and the brand is committed to producing a quality ethical spirit. Madre Mezcal is produced by the Morales family in Oaxaca, using a cracking combination of Espadin and Cuishe agave, cooked over hot stone in earthen pits and crushed with a stone tahona wheel. A mineral-forward expression, with wafts of smoke fresh herbs running through it.
This artisanal spirit is produced just outside San Dionisio in Oaxaca, led by Jose Garcia Morales and his family who plant agave, harvest these, and use traditional Zapotec methods to create Mezcal Madre. This involves cooking the agave over hot stones in earthen pits, crushing with a stone wheel, fermenting in open-air wood containers with wild yeast and distilling with wood fires.
Creative explorer and co-founder Tony Farfalla didnt set out to create a mezcal brand. He was documenting shamanism in eastern Mexico when the ancient transcendental spirit of the Oaxacan desert found him. Farfalla teamed up with three other creatives, and after three years of returning to Oaxaca, and working closely with the Garcia Morales family to create a new mezcal in the Zapotec tradition, Mezcal Madre was born. This is a fantastic Mezcal to get you started if you're new to the category and want a good point of reference to begin with.
Nose
Light, mellow, and tangy, campfire smoke, faint herbs and sweetness. Cinnamon and a touch of sweetness rounds out the nose.
Palate
Spicy and bittersweet. Smoky tobacco, cacao nibs, super-dark chocolate, black pepper, and an overall gingery taste to it. There's an underlying rich creamy texture that adds to the vegetal crunchy green character. This has enough to keep you returning back to it but not too complex to confuse a beginners palate.
Finish
Smoky and savoury finish, notes of black forest ham. Earthy, and mineral-rich characterized by bright tropical fruit, acidic dryness, and herbaceous notes where you start to notice the cuishe.
From Oaxaca, to Michoacan and beyond, Derrumbes tend to cook their agave in stone pits underground (unless it's their San Luis Potosi expression which uses a 'horno' like small traditional Tequila producers) using black oak to give a light smokiness which brings out the fruit, mineral or herbal notes depending on the type of agave used. Unique fermentation processes include; underground tanks lined with pine wood and distillation via a wooden still, all of which guarantee some of the most intriguing and unique aromas and flavours to be experienced in Mezcal.
In the far north-east of the Mezcal Denomination of Origin region, mezcal made in Tamaulipas is unique and rarely found outside of Mexico. Two of the agave varietals used, known as Amole (Agave Funkiana and Agave Univittata), are endemic to this state. These small football-sized agave hearts are cooked together with the much larger Agave Americana by Maestro Mezcalero Cuauthemoc Jacques following the traditional method of production, using a horno de tierra (ground oven), natural fermentation with wild yeast in wooden vats, and small scale distillation in copper pot stills. The flavour profile obtained is like no other mezcal.
Nose
Citrus notes of blood orange combine with mineral notes, followed by deep aromas of black cherry and bitter dark chocolate. More herbal notes and mustard greens develop as time nose on, but still sweet and fresh.
Palate
Dry and crisp on the palate, balanced by fruity notes of black berries and grapes. Mineral notes build with freshness prevailing.
Finish
Fruit aspects fade into fresh, herbal tones, and bitter dark chocolate. Even after a few minutes fresh sensations prevail.
The life of a mezcalero once meant inconsistent work, low wages and an uncertain future. The 36 farming families behind the Banhez Cooperative are changing this, improving lives today and for generations, but it was not always this way. The Banhez Cooperative is committed to making mezcal sustainably using artisanal techniques. Earthen wood-fire ovens lined with local river stone, tahonas pulled by horses, natural fermentation and small-batch distillation define the lifes work of the mezcaleros. Banhez Tepeztate is comprised of 100% Tepeztate agave, a unique species that can take up to 25 years to mature.
Tepeztate is a fascinating agave (and my personal favourite) known for its long lifespan and ability to thrive in extreme terrains. It develops best in dry soils, preferably between rocks to drape its leaves over. As an endemic Mexican agave, and more specifically to Oaxaca, Tepezate’s growth and reproduction is limited to the low forests and scrub of the Sierra Madre del Sur, from the eastern end of the Balsas River to the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. Its most singularly defining trait is the extended period it needs to reach maturity, between 25 and 35 years.
Nose
Herbaceous. Pepper, lots of green veg, bell pepper, jalapeño and some string bean. Really complex with a crisp minerality.
Taste
Thick on the palate, loaded with jerky, jalapeño, fruity apple and peach, some pepper and a candy note. A lot going on
Finish
Long, sweet and vegetal. Thre is a jalapeño note with crisp pepper note and a hint of banana peel.
La Venenosa Sur - Sierra Volcanes De Jalisco
Raicilla - literally meaning "little root" Not mezcal, not tequila, but because of the production of this spirit, this Raicilla is in the Mezcal blog rather than Tequila.
What is Raicilla? What makes raicilla different? After the Spanish had introduced tax on the production of agave spirits that were made from the piña, or the heart of the agave plant, raicilla is the product of the root... and thus, this wonderful tax evading spirit was born.
Made in Jalisco, Mexico, but falling outside the Tequila denomination, La Venenosa Raicilla follows a distilling tradition that is nearly 500 years old. Created by “Chef” Esteban Morales, La Venenosa showcases the many varieties of agave and distillation techniques native to Jalisco. Esteban traversed the state in search of the best producers in each region. Every one of these Raicilla expressions is unique; created by different Maestro Taberneros in distinct regions, from different species of agave using diverse techniques, the individual results are astounding.
Produced by Maestro Tabernero Don Arturo Campos in the village of San Juan Espanatica, Tuxpan (Jalisco) at approximately 1,400 metres above sea level. The agave used is both Cenizo and a type of Angustifolia known locally as Lineño, which is harvested after seven years. The agave is roasted in an earthen oven and it is then distilled twice in a philippino style still made from clay pots.
Nose
A mixture of sharp raw and smoky cooked agave notes, shot through with cracked stone and old campfires. White and black pepper spiciness sit at the back along with earthy notes of sweet leather, freshly dug new potatoes and mineral-rich soil.
Palate
Soft and sweet on the palate, with earthiness of the nose pushed back to reveal candied fruit, sugar syrup and floral touches. The spice still runs through the centre, with hints of dark rubber and river stones.
Finish
Soft and lingering, with sweet creamy notes slowly becoming spicy before fading away to a dry, apple skin end.
